A historic destination blending Georgian elegance with modern dining experiences
The Pantiles in Royal Tunbridge Wells offers a delightful dining experience at Kumquat, featuring Asian-fusion cuisine, a vibrant atmosphere, and a rich history, making it a must-visit destination.
A highly recommended day trip destination from London (about a hour’s train journey from Charing Cross, Waterloo and Tunbridge Wells) is the famous Pantiles colonnaded area of Royal Tunbridge Wells. Today, the traffic-free thoroughfare is home to a number of smart bars, chic boutiques and several excellent restaurants and Thursday night jazz from its 120 year old bandstand.
At the height of C18th Georgian fashion, London society’s great and good came down to take the healing waters from the iron rich Chalybeate spring. It is where the term ‘a night on the tiles’ originated after the gentry’s late night partying. They were led by the most famous dandy of the age, Beau Nash, who acted as Master of Ceremonies in both Bath and Tunbridge Wells and whose name still adorns one of the town’s best loved pubs on Mount Ephraim.
Sadly the Kent spa subsequently fell out of favour when sea-bathing became all the rage. Royalty abandoned the town in favour of young upstarts like Bognor, Brighton and Broad-stairs. Following something of a mini-resurgence, the Pantiles is once again the place for West Kent fashionistas to see and be seen.
George Shaw pays a visit to The Pantiles’s newest addition, Kumquat, an Asian-fusion bar and restaurant. At work in the open kitchen sending wafts of exotic cooking aromas, chef-patron Alex Boyd blends his classic French culinary training with techniques learned working in Hong Kong, where he met his wife and business partner, Virginia.
Alex trained at the prestigious Westminster Catering College – whose alumni includes Jamie Oliver, Ainsley Harriott and Antony Worrall Thompson – before building a CV which includes some of London’s top restaurants including L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Scott’s of Mayfair and La Tante Claire.
The day’s filthy weather meant eating inside looking at The Pantiles, rather than sitting on them at one of Kumquat’s alfresco tables.
As we studied the exotic menu, we enjoyed a signature Kumquat Mojito mixed with its their syrup and a Havana Club 3 rum (£7.50)
Lunch began with elegant Japanese leaf bites – which resemble decorated stinging nettles, with chilli and crispy shallots – but without the after-burn. Delicate and flavoursome, they were a telling portent of the pleasures to come. Three leaves £10.75.
For starters we chose a subtly balanced Miso caramel glazed aubergine, with edamame and sesame seeds £10.75 and the Yellow fin tuna tartare with complex tones of moilu, cucumber, wasabi mayonnaise and cassava crackers £13.50.
For the main my dining partner was taken by the succulent ‘Char Sui’ honey-glazed Iberico pork with seasonal veg £28.0
My option was a perfectly rendered and plump Roasted stone bass with multi-layered umami flavours of a sharp Korean style dashi with hints of bonito, kelp and anchovies, julienne vegetables and shitake mushrooms (£27).
Ours sides were an aromatic Jasmine rice (£4.95); Red curry buttered al dente tender stem broccoli and Spring onion pancake with homemade chilli soy dip (£4.95 each).
To finish were shared our fluffy Matcha (green tea)panna cotta with blueberry compote and pomegranate £8.50 and a sensual Mango ice-cream, with toasted marshmallows, passion fruit, lime crumble and freeze dried raspberries (both £8.50).
Sated by the repeated and gentle assaults on our gustatory systems, we finished our drinks promenaded away into the damp Kentish air, thankful for the protection of the covered walkway behind the antique columns but contemplating kicking on for a night’s revelling on the baked Wealden clay tiles.
