On a cold winter’s day, hearing of great things from an aspiring young chef, George Shaw goes in search of some the Capital’s best contemporary Indian fayre and deems it a worthwhile expedition.
In Westminster’s converted fire station, Yaatra offers an exceptional modern Indian dining experience, featuring Chef Amit Bagyal’s innovative eight-course tasting menu and remarkable signature dishes.
It’s rare that I get to November and still encounter contenders for best lunch of the year. Although recommendations by my regular dining companion, Rajesh Suri of Tamarind Collection and Grand Trunk Road fame, have yet to disappoint.
On a bitterly cold day, I approached the St James’s venue through a brisque walk past the plethora of street food vendors of Strutton Ground. The were all doing a roaring trade from local office workers. The fare smelt enticing, but not that enticing, given the promise that awaited in centrally heated premises just round the corner. A particularly biting chill wind was travelling from the North Sea along the River Thames.
The actual venue is the Old Westminster Fire Station, compete with fireman’s pole in the Grade II listed building which retains many original features. These contrast with grand chandelier, a generous bar draped with scarlet and marigold garlands and fronted by furry bar stools. The restaurant originally opened as Mathura, being relaunched with its new moniker meaning ‘journey’ or ‘pilgrimage’, particularly along a stetch of water, after a change of ownership.
After a crisp glass of Brut Mosaique Champagne, I warmed up with a Roast Banana Old Fashioned signature cocktail: charred banana infused with bourbon, anise and cinnamon syrup, whisky bitters.
Forgoing the complete wine flights, we opted for a delightful Chablis · Domaine de Vauroux and then the Argentinian Marchiori & Barraud Malbec. Both were excellent.
Not feeling men enough for the full 8-course £92 tasting menu, we asked executive head chef Amit Bagyal (ex Kaniska) to tantalised us with his choice of its highlights. Tasting menus offer a choice of matched premium (£92) and deluxe (£102.50) wines.
Past mistakes led me to want to skip the prelude of elegantly presented poppadoms standing proud from a base of dried red kidney chutneys, for fear of denting my appetite – but these were delightfully light.
Next was a perfectly rendered Charred Kaundri Mustard Prawn, retaining sufficient crunch, with a sharp mint sauce.
The came a succulent Togashari Scallop with warm hints of mustard in a shell nestling on a mosaic bed of polished pebbles. The dish delivered a richly complex bittersweet tang with tamarind top notes.
There followed an interlude punctuated by a fine dining version of the popular Pakistani street food snack from potatoes and chickpeas, aloo Chaat Channa Chat, with a particularly unstreet buttermilk foam.
The main affair was a Grilled Malai Lamb Chop, saffron rice and garlic naan. As the owner of a very small flock of rare breed Portland sheep as four-legged lawn mowers destined to become mutton, I am a self-confessed ovine snob.
I was apprehensive the lamb was served with a topping of melted cheese. A blue cheese on a fillet stake is a marvellous combination. But lamb? The Welsh chops were thick, tender and succulent, oozing their pink venous fluid when cut and the meat and dairy combination worked majestically. I am a convert.
Although we had tried to ration ourselves to a mere four courses or so, Chef Bagyal cheated and snuck out more delights from his kitchen for us to taste: his heavenly Butter Chicken and a rich melt-in-the mouth Goat Osso made with his grandmother’s recipe with a punchy ginger and turmeric gravy with caramelised onion deploying Himalayan hand-crushed spices and salt to great effect.
One day I will dine a top Indian restaurant where the chef does not insist, I try their creamy Dal Makani (black lentil). They invariably taste divine (as did this one), but their heavy richness makes them a dish too far when feasting. In more of a tarkha fan and Yaatra’s version is exceptional too.
Finally, the deserts arrived on a bed of dry ice, reminiscent of a 1970s heavy rock band – a fluffy Chocolate Mousse adorned with peanut brittles and mandarin plus a Coconut Pannacotta infused with the sweet grassy almond, rose and vanilla flavours.
For anyone wishing to venture in our footprints making the pilgrimage to Yaatra, they are likely to find it a worthwhile journey.
